A brand-new or unshaped beret can look surprisingly different from the finished article. Straight out of storage, it may sit high on the head, feel stiff, or have excess material in all the wrong places.
Fortunately, shaping a beret is straightforward. With a little water, patience and careful adjustment, you can achieve the familiar military-style fit without damaging the beret.
What You’ll Need
- Your beret
- Cold or lukewarm water
- A towel
- A mirror
- A little patience
If your beret has a removable cap badge, we recommend removing it before soaking the beret, particularly if the badge is made from metal.
Step 1: Check the Fit First
Before getting the beret wet, put it on and make sure you are happy with the size.
The headband should fit firmly around your head without being painfully tight. Remember that shaping can improve how a beret sits, but it will not turn an incorrectly sized beret into the correct size.
If you’re unsure what military sizing means, take a look at The Old Kitbag Military Size Guide before getting started.
Step 2: Wet the Beret
Soak the wool portion of the beret in cold or lukewarm water.
Try to avoid unnecessarily soaking a leather headband where possible. Hot water should also be avoided, as excessive heat can cause wool to shrink or distort.
Once the material is thoroughly damp, gently squeeze out the excess water.
Do not wring or aggressively twist the beret.
You want it damp and workable, not dripping wet.
Step 3: Put the Beret On
Place the damp beret on your head and position the headband where you would normally wear it.
For a traditional British military-style shape, the badge position sits above the left eye, with the excess material pulled across towards the right-hand side of the head.
Take your time positioning it before you start shaping the material.
Step 4: Shape the Front
Smooth the material around the badge area so that the front of the beret sits relatively flat against the head.
If your beret has a stiffened badge backing, make sure this remains positioned correctly behind the badge area.
Use your fingers to work out any folds or bunching around the front.
Step 5: Pull the Material to the Right
This is where the familiar military shape begins to appear.
Take the excess material from the crown of the beret and gently pull it across the top of your head towards your right ear.
Smooth the wool down as you go.
The aim is for the beret to follow the shape of your head rather than sitting like a dome on top of it.
Depending on the beret, you may need to spend a few minutes adjusting it until the material falls naturally.
Step 6: Keep Wearing It While It Starts to Dry
Once you’re happy with the shape, leave the beret on for a while.
As the damp wool begins to dry, it will start retaining the shape of your head.
You don’t necessarily need to wear a soaking-wet beret for hours. Once the shape has begun to hold, carefully remove it without disturbing the folds.
Step 7: Leave It to Dry Naturally
Place the beret somewhere well ventilated and allow it to dry naturally.
Avoid:
- Radiators
- Hairdryers
- Tumble dryers
- Direct high heat
Rapid drying can shrink wool, distort the headband and undo all of your careful shaping.
You can periodically check the beret while it dries and gently adjust the material if required.
Step 8: Refit the Badge
Once the beret is completely dry, refit the cap badge if you removed it earlier.
Put the beret on again and make any final adjustments.
You should now have a considerably flatter, cleaner military-style shape.
Don’t Expect Perfection First Time
One of the most important things to remember is that berets tend to improve with wear.
A beret that has been worn regularly will usually sit much more naturally than one that has just been taken out of stores.
If the shape isn’t quite right after your first attempt, simply dampen the wool again and repeat the process. Small adjustments over time are often better than aggressively stretching or manipulating the material in one go.
What About Used Military Berets?
One advantage of buying issued or previously worn surplus is that the beret may already have been shaped by its previous owner.
Sometimes this works in your favour. Sometimes their head and preferred shape will be completely different from yours.
The good news is that most wool berets can simply be dampened and reshaped using the same process above.
At The Old Kitbag, we individually grade our surplus so you have a clearer idea of the condition of the item you’re buying rather than relying on vague descriptions.
A Few Final Tips
Use cold or lukewarm water.
There’s no need for boiling or very hot water.
Don’t rush the drying process.
Natural drying is much kinder to the wool and headband.
Shape it while wearing it.
Your own head is the best mould for your beret.
Don’t worry if it looks strange when wet.
A damp beret often looks considerably worse before it looks better.
Wear it.
Regular use is one of the best ways to get a beret sitting exactly how you want it.
Looking for a Beret?
The Old Kitbag regularly stocks British military and associated berets in a range of colours, regiments, sizes and conditions.
Our surplus is individually graded, and where military sizing isn’t immediately obvious, we aim to explain it in plain English so you know what you’re actually buying.
Whether you’re replacing an old beret, completing a collection, buying for cadet use or simply looking for a piece of British military surplus, keep an eye on our latest stock — new items are added regularly.